Here is my method for bleeding brakes. I have great success with using this method. After using this method on my Vette, the brake feel and performance were awesome-night and day.

So here goes it. Click on each of the photos for a caption explaining each step.

Get a mason jar and partially fill it with clean brake fluid. Then pick up a few feet of clear tubing/hose of a diameter that will allow it to tightly fit over the bleeder screw. You may need to ream one end of the hose out, or stretch it with the end of a phillips screw driver, to get the end of the hose to fit tightly. But once the hose is stretched, it will stay that way, and will become an important tool in your garage. I have my bleeder kit nearby in the garage, and ready to go.

Now once the hose is attached, open the bleeder, and pump the brakes to fill the hose with brake fluid. In a sense, you're priming the clear hose with brake fluid. Then close the bleeder. Now raise the jar, with one end of the hose in it, above the bleeder. Any air in the hose, at the bleeder, will rise up toward the jar. This is good. We don't want any air near the bleeder. Once the air is up near the jar, lower the jar to about the level of the bleeder. This should keep fluid by the bleeder, and the air in the hose towards the jar.

I use an old recycling bin as my bleeder station. It's tall enough to place the mason jar and hose almost equal with the bleeder. Plus, it's a nice place to put the rubber bleeder caps and my wrench. A box will also work.

Now, open the bleeder and go pump the brakes. There is a rhythm to doing this. Slow and steady down, lift up quickly. Slow and steady down, quick up. While you're doing this, it doesn't hurt to completely flush the system, if you haven't done so in awhile.

At any rate, it will only take a few pumps before you can close the bleeder and move onto the next. Because the hose is primed, moving to the next bleeder is a simple matter of attaching the hose to the bleeder, raising the jar to move the air bubble up towards the jar and away from the bleeder, and then opening the bleeder and pumping the brakes. If there is air in the system, the moment you crack the bleeder, you'll see it come out. Raise the jar and let it rise to the top. Then go to work pumping.

Of course, keep a close eye on the master cylinder, and make sure it doesn't go low on fluid. Also, watch the mason jar to make sure it doesn't overflow. I always keep old brake fluid containers nearby to empty the old fluid into.

Try this method, and you'll never go back. You can do the whole car in less than a half hour, and you won't need a helper.

	1 Man Brake Bleeding
Site Links: Homepage	Here is my method for bleeding brakes. I have great success with using this method. After using this method on my Vette, the brake feel and performance were awesome-night and day. So here goes it. Click on each of the photos for a caption explaining each step. Get a mason jar and partially fill it with clean brake fluid. Then pick up a few feet of clear tubing/hose of a diameter that will allow it to tightly fit over the bleeder screw. You may need to ream one end of the hose out, or stretch it with the end of a phillips screw driver, to get the end of the hose to fit tightly. But once the hose is stretched, it will stay that way, and will become an important tool in your garage. I have my bleeder kit nearby in the garage, and ready to go. Now once the hose is attached, open the bleeder, and pump the brakes to fill the hose with brake fluid. In a sense, you're priming the clear hose with brake fluid. Then close the bleeder. Now raise the jar, with one end of the hose in it, above the bleeder. Any air in the hose, at the bleeder, will rise up toward the jar. This is good. We don't want any air near the bleeder. Once the air is up near the jar, lower the jar to about the level of the bleeder. This should keep fluid by the bleeder, and the air in the hose towards the jar. I use an old recycling bin as my bleeder station. It's tall enough to place the mason jar and hose almost equal with the bleeder. Plus, it's a nice place to put the rubber bleeder caps and my wrench. A box will also work. Now, open the bleeder and go pump the brakes. There is a rhythm to doing this. Slow and steady down, lift up quickly. Slow and steady down, quick up. While you're doing this, it doesn't hurt to completely flush the system, if you haven't done so in awhile. At any rate, it will only take a few pumps before you can close the bleeder and move onto the next. Because the hose is primed, moving to the next bleeder is a simple matter of attaching the hose to the bleeder, raising the jar to move the air bubble up towards the jar and away from the bleeder, and then opening the bleeder and pumping the brakes. If there is air in the system, the moment you crack the bleeder, you'll see it come out. Raise the jar and let it rise to the top. Then go to work pumping. Of course, keep a close eye on the master cylinder, and make sure it doesn't go low on fluid. Also, watch the mason jar to make sure it doesn't overflow. I always keep old brake fluid containers nearby to empty the old fluid into. Try this method, and you'll never go back. You can do the whole car in less than a half hour, and you won't need a helper.