My Engine Page
Welcome to my engine page. I want to take you through the steps I went through, once I decided a change was in order.
On the first, real Spring day of 2002, I took Sarah, my 77 out for a drive. I had just bought her, the year previous, and I hadn't done much more than interior, paint, and minor electrical work. Mechanically, she was stock.
The day was beautiful, mid sixties, full sun. I had the t-tops off and my wife next to me. We had a blast. When we got home, I decided a little Spring maintenance was in order. I had never changed the fuel filter, and I figured that might explain some hesitation I was feeling.
So I pulled the filter nut off the Quadrajet, and found mush. The filter had taken a crap, a long time ago. I was amazed the car ran at all. I cleaned out all the old, gave a shot of compressed air into the hole, and put in a new filter. Bad idea.
The compressed air dislodged something, and the carb began to dump fuel into the manifold. When you buy a C3, or any car that has some age and an uncertain history, you risk throwing yourself into a maintenance nightmare.
And that's how my engine build started. Just like that. One minute, I had the carb pulled. The next thing I knew, the entire engine was out.
Follow Along...
On the first, real Spring day of 2002, I took Sarah, my 77 out for a drive. I had just bought her, the year previous, and I hadn't done much more than interior, paint, and minor electrical work. Mechanically, she was stock.
The day was beautiful, mid sixties, full sun. I had the t-tops off and my wife next to me. We had a blast. When we got home, I decided a little Spring maintenance was in order. I had never changed the fuel filter, and I figured that might explain some hesitation I was feeling.
So I pulled the filter nut off the Quadrajet, and found mush. The filter had taken a crap, a long time ago. I was amazed the car ran at all. I cleaned out all the old, gave a shot of compressed air into the hole, and put in a new filter. Bad idea.
The compressed air dislodged something, and the carb began to dump fuel into the manifold. When you buy a C3, or any car that has some age and an uncertain history, you risk throwing yourself into a maintenance nightmare.
And that's how my engine build started. Just like that. One minute, I had the carb pulled. The next thing I knew, the entire engine was out.
Follow Along...
Here is my engine, with the carb pulled. Remember, in 77, Chevy went to a blue block. But I can tell you this, the blue you see in this picture, is not original. Sometime in Sarah's history, her engine was given what I call (my apologies to those of Polish heritage, truly) a Polish Rebuild.
Some nitwit, the one I bought her from, I'm sure, took a spray can to the engine bay, in an effort to make her look fresh.
Some nitwit, the one I bought her from, I'm sure, took a spray can to the engine bay, in an effort to make her look fresh.
So here I am, getting ready to pluck the old boat anchor from the belly of the beast. Time wise, it took me seven hours to get to the point where I was ready to pull the motor. I worked by myself, and I had never done this before.
Most of pulling a motor from a C3 is straightforward. And it's much easier than any fuel injected car, as you don't have to contend with a bunch of sensors and the wires that accompany them.
The tricky parts had more to do with Sarah's age. Items such as motor mounts, were original. That means they hadn't budged since the Fall of 1977. And if they had their way, they weren't about to move in 2002. But perseverance, and breaker bars, proved otherwise.
Also, while I don't suggest removing the hood by yourself, know that it can be done. Removing the hood just requires a little bit of balance and preplanning.
Most of pulling a motor from a C3 is straightforward. And it's much easier than any fuel injected car, as you don't have to contend with a bunch of sensors and the wires that accompany them.
The tricky parts had more to do with Sarah's age. Items such as motor mounts, were original. That means they hadn't budged since the Fall of 1977. And if they had their way, they weren't about to move in 2002. But perseverance, and breaker bars, proved otherwise.
Also, while I don't suggest removing the hood by yourself, know that it can be done. Removing the hood just requires a little bit of balance and preplanning.
So here you see the block, stripped of its upper end. What I found, was a lot of carbon build up. I found chunks of crap that I couldn't believe was circulating through my engine.
The heads were the worst.
The heads were the worst.
This manifold, that has literally welded itself to one of the cylinder heads, shows a lot. First, you can see all the crappy spray paint. Look at the EGR valve, and wave good bye.
If you cold get closer to the head, you'd see more chunks of crap.
The previous year, my first engine undertaking, was to try to swap out the valve seals. Changing valve seals should normally only take a few hours, tops. On the 77, it took days, and I was still forced to leave some of the seals in place, as the carbon build up would not allow the valve locks to give up their grip. I used a mallet, I used heat. I got nowhere.
Pulling the heads, explains it all.
If you cold get closer to the head, you'd see more chunks of crap.
The previous year, my first engine undertaking, was to try to swap out the valve seals. Changing valve seals should normally only take a few hours, tops. On the 77, it took days, and I was still forced to leave some of the seals in place, as the carbon build up would not allow the valve locks to give up their grip. I used a mallet, I used heat. I got nowhere.
Pulling the heads, explains it all.
Here is the free cylinder head, disassembled and cleaned. Up until I realized the manifold and the other head were destined for the scrap heap, I was going to do a light rebuild on my own.
But it was not to be. What was going to be a fun, hobby build up, turned into an all out Balance, Blueprint, and Build by a professional. What determined this plan of action, was the cost of the replacement parts. As the old parts piled up, and the new parts arrived, I realized I was not willing to accept the possibility that my lack of experience could lead to a ton of bad, new parts, real fast.
So I called in the pros, and I delivered the block to my machinist. Read below, and you'll see what it all cost.
But it was not to be. What was going to be a fun, hobby build up, turned into an all out Balance, Blueprint, and Build by a professional. What determined this plan of action, was the cost of the replacement parts. As the old parts piled up, and the new parts arrived, I realized I was not willing to accept the possibility that my lack of experience could lead to a ton of bad, new parts, real fast.
So I called in the pros, and I delivered the block to my machinist. Read below, and you'll see what it all cost.
While the block was at the machinist's, being cleaned and inspected, I took the opportunity to clean up the timing cover, oil pan, and some center bolt valve covers I had lying around.
Why center bolt valve covers?
When I realized my heads were shot, I knew I didn't want to spend big bucks for a set of aluminum heads. Hot Rod and some other mags had done some great builds with GM Performance Parts Vortec heads. Scoggin Dickey was selling a complete kit with assembled heads, Vortec specific Edelbrock manifold, and all the requisite fasteners, for less than $800.
I was sold.
Why center bolt valve covers?
When I realized my heads were shot, I knew I didn't want to spend big bucks for a set of aluminum heads. Hot Rod and some other mags had done some great builds with GM Performance Parts Vortec heads. Scoggin Dickey was selling a complete kit with assembled heads, Vortec specific Edelbrock manifold, and all the requisite fasteners, for less than $800.
I was sold.
Here is the freshly blasted oil pan and timing chain cover.
Keep in mind, if you are sandblasting parts, the sand can get everywhere. It can even get into your new engine. A perfect avenue for this, is if you don't clean the blasted pan meticulously.
A word to the wise.
Keep in mind, if you are sandblasting parts, the sand can get everywhere. It can even get into your new engine. A perfect avenue for this, is if you don't clean the blasted pan meticulously.
A word to the wise.
Is this a great comnination or what?
NEVER USE TORCHES WITHOUT BEER!
And keep combustible aerosols close by.
Okay, okay. The lawyer next to me said that's not funny. So here's the deal. The above picture is only a joke. I didn't really drink that beer.
My headers always looked like garbage. So, since I had them off the car, I figured I'd clean them up. After sanding them and treating them with a cheap CLR Wal-Mart imitation, I painted them with a Dupli-Color high heat paint. I did not use engine paint, mind you. I used paint that is supposed to be good for temps over 1100 degrees.
For this paint to work right, it's supposed to be cured at a high heat. Without an engine to bolt them to, or a stove large enough to hold them, I was forced to go a different route.
Enter MAP gas! I lit the torch and fired it into different holes until I felt the paint was cured. I did this for over an hour. While not perfect, the paint has held up pretty well. And the paint only cost me a couple of bucks.
In my book, this is a success.
Give me that beer...
NEVER USE TORCHES WITHOUT BEER!
And keep combustible aerosols close by.
Okay, okay. The lawyer next to me said that's not funny. So here's the deal. The above picture is only a joke. I didn't really drink that beer.
My headers always looked like garbage. So, since I had them off the car, I figured I'd clean them up. After sanding them and treating them with a cheap CLR Wal-Mart imitation, I painted them with a Dupli-Color high heat paint. I did not use engine paint, mind you. I used paint that is supposed to be good for temps over 1100 degrees.
For this paint to work right, it's supposed to be cured at a high heat. Without an engine to bolt them to, or a stove large enough to hold them, I was forced to go a different route.
Enter MAP gas! I lit the torch and fired it into different holes until I felt the paint was cured. I did this for over an hour. While not perfect, the paint has held up pretty well. And the paint only cost me a couple of bucks.
In my book, this is a success.
Give me that beer...
More details.
Here is the engine latch. The engine is out of the car. And my builder was taking his sweet time. I gave him the block at the end of March. By July, I was still without car, and I was getting bored. So I detailed the engine bay, rebuilt the front end, and polished the hood latch(es).
If I was bored in July, by September I was homicidal.
Here is the engine latch. The engine is out of the car. And my builder was taking his sweet time. I gave him the block at the end of March. By July, I was still without car, and I was getting bored. So I detailed the engine bay, rebuilt the front end, and polished the hood latch(es).
If I was bored in July, by September I was homicidal.
But quality work takes time. Right?
In July I predicted, jokingly, that I'd have my engine in October.
I got my engine back in October.
Here it is.
In July I predicted, jokingly, that I'd have my engine in October.
I got my engine back in October.
Here it is.
And here I ham, smiling once again. I have my engine.
Here is my new engine, with my new Edelbrock carb. In retrospect, I think I should have gone back with the Quadrajet. This Edelbrock, combined with the new engine, is a real fuel hog.
But on the plus side, the Edelbrock worked right out of the box, it's easy to tune, and it doesn't leak. So it stays.
Whereas it took me 7 hours to remove the motor, I spent two weeks, putting it all back together. I had to bend fuel lines, attach throttle cables to carbs that weren't part of the original plan, and try to remember what vacuum lines and wires went where.
But on the plus side, the Edelbrock worked right out of the box, it's easy to tune, and it doesn't leak. So it stays.
Whereas it took me 7 hours to remove the motor, I spent two weeks, putting it all back together. I had to bend fuel lines, attach throttle cables to carbs that weren't part of the original plan, and try to remember what vacuum lines and wires went where.
Once it was all hooked up, I broke in the cam, got an alignment, and then was off on my way, in a nearly new car, that is way faster than it ever was back in 77.
Read below, for a breakdown of the expenses...
Read below, for a breakdown of the expenses...
The Dirty Details $$$$
We started with the base L-48 350 small block. I disassembled everything and delivered the block and crank to my builder/machine shop, The George A. Shriber Co,in Cuyahoga Falls, OH (330-928-2137).
They hot tanked (cleaned) and inspected the block for $35. The block ended up being good. So then I moved ahead and had them inspect the crank and rods. The crank inspection was $10, the rods cost $40. All 8 of the rods were beyond spec and needed to be refurbished. It cost $120 to recondition the rods and another $15 to align three of them.
Also, the crank had to be turned .10 under. This cost $80. In the meantime, while this was being done, I purchased my parts.
Choosing the right combo was tough. But after reading the success various magazines have had with GM Performance Parts Vortec heads, I decided this was the best choice. They've managed over 400 horsepower by using the combo I went with. While I can't yet verify these numbers on my own engine, Desktop Dyno says I'm probably close.
I purchased a Vortec Head kit from Scoggin Dickey (800-692-4460). They offer a kit that includes the proper Vortec intake (Edelbrock Performer), fully assembled Vortec heads, and all the required fasteners for $750. Considering the alternatives, this is not bad at all.
I bought Keith Black hypereutectic flat top pistons, an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb, Crane 268H cam, and various other parts from Summit racing (330-630-0250).
I delivered the parts to Mark at the George Shriber company, and he measured each piston and then bored each cylinder to fit. He does this, because the actual diameter of pistons can vary, and if you go by a standard bore alone, you'll lose cylinder pressure and proper piston to wall clearance. The rebore and hone was $160. To torque and check the mains cost $38. Mark also balanced the rotating assembly ($205) and assembled everything using ARP fasteners. The assembly was $225 and the fasteners were $67.
There were other charges as well, miscellaneous stuff. To chamfer each bolt hole (20 of them) cost $22.50. Degreasing and blasting the oil pan, timing cover, and valve covers cost $15. Miscellaneous shop supplies cost $22.95.
E-mail me if you are getting ready to do this, or have questions.
They hot tanked (cleaned) and inspected the block for $35. The block ended up being good. So then I moved ahead and had them inspect the crank and rods. The crank inspection was $10, the rods cost $40. All 8 of the rods were beyond spec and needed to be refurbished. It cost $120 to recondition the rods and another $15 to align three of them.
Also, the crank had to be turned .10 under. This cost $80. In the meantime, while this was being done, I purchased my parts.
Choosing the right combo was tough. But after reading the success various magazines have had with GM Performance Parts Vortec heads, I decided this was the best choice. They've managed over 400 horsepower by using the combo I went with. While I can't yet verify these numbers on my own engine, Desktop Dyno says I'm probably close.
I purchased a Vortec Head kit from Scoggin Dickey (800-692-4460). They offer a kit that includes the proper Vortec intake (Edelbrock Performer), fully assembled Vortec heads, and all the required fasteners for $750. Considering the alternatives, this is not bad at all.
I bought Keith Black hypereutectic flat top pistons, an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb, Crane 268H cam, and various other parts from Summit racing (330-630-0250).
I delivered the parts to Mark at the George Shriber company, and he measured each piston and then bored each cylinder to fit. He does this, because the actual diameter of pistons can vary, and if you go by a standard bore alone, you'll lose cylinder pressure and proper piston to wall clearance. The rebore and hone was $160. To torque and check the mains cost $38. Mark also balanced the rotating assembly ($205) and assembled everything using ARP fasteners. The assembly was $225 and the fasteners were $67.
There were other charges as well, miscellaneous stuff. To chamfer each bolt hole (20 of them) cost $22.50. Degreasing and blasting the oil pan, timing cover, and valve covers cost $15. Miscellaneous shop supplies cost $22.95.
E-mail me if you are getting ready to do this, or have questions.
jveto@neo.rr.com
Here Are Some Of The Vendors I Used And Recommend
