How to install the LAPD Euro Headlights kit

How to install the LAPD Euro Headlights kit

Disclaimers, etc.

The following are the steps I think I used to intall this kit on my 2001 C5 coupe.
Use this at your own risk, don't come whining to me, you break it you fix it without me or my money or my responsibility, blah, blah, blah.
I write technical documents for a living (patent attorney), so I tend to be wordy. A picture is worth 1,000 words, but 1,000 words are worth a lot of something, I think. So, I hope the words help your install, or if not, they might help you get some sleep.
This entire light install took me a little over an hour, which included taking pictures and notes. This web page, on the other hand, took much longer. Go figure.

Let's get started

Here's our tools, from left to right:

1/4" drive socket wrench
1/4" drive socket extension
1/4" drive universal joint
1/8" 10mm deep socket
1/4" to 1/8" converter
10 mm end wrench
size 15 torx screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
small flat blade screwdriver

Note that if you have a 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket, then you can use it instead of (4) and eliminate (5).

Step 1a:Raise the headlights. One way of doing this is turning the lights all the way on, then turning the light stalk back one notch and the lights will remain up -- however, your parking lights will stay on. I did this and my battery survived. I think there is also a manual way to raise the lights with a mechanism by each light, but I didn't mess with it. Getting to the removal step, there are three (3) phillips screws that hold a black plastic frame around the headlight. Two of these screws face the center of the car, one shown in the picture to the right and another shown in step 1b immediately below.

Step 1b:The second screw facing the center of the car.

Step 1c:The third phillips screw faces away from the car and is shown in the picture immediately to the right.

Step 2:Remove the black frame. You might need to use the small flat blade screwdriver to very lightly pry downward where you see my finger. The reason why is there is a metal clip just under the body-color panel on top of the light, and the top of the black frame fits in it -- this metal clip is shown immediately below. Also, as indicated by my finger in the picture to the right, the black frame has an upward ridge that must be free of the light to pull the frame out.

Step 2, continued:The screwdriver is just being used here as a pointer to indicate the metal clip into which the black frame from above fits. You don't do anything to the clip; it's just shown so you'll see why the frame takes a little effort to get out.

Step 3a:There are four (4) torx screws that hold the small body-color (e.g., pewter in my case) panel on top of the light. In steps 3a and 3b, you see 2 of these screws, one facing the center line of the car and the other facing away from the car.

Step 3b:The torx screw facing away from the car.

Step 3c:After you remove the screws from steps 3a and 3b, turn the headlights off and raise your hood so you can access the other two torx screws; these other two face the windshield, as shown here in step 3c and in step 3d, below.

Step 3d:The last screw holding the body panel cover on top of the light assembly.

Step 4:Having removed all four (4) torx screws, you are now ready to lift off the top cover panel. It might snag a bit on the side that faces the fender because there is a screw bracket over there (from the black panel you already removed). Be patient and careful not to scratch your paint as you wiggle the cover panel up and away from the car.

Step 5a:Here's a picture once the body-color top panel has been removed. Some folks proceed with un-bolting the light at this point using the end wrench, but I found that to look fairly tedious and I've read some funny recounts of frustration by these people. So, instead, the bracket that you now see on top of the light can be removed and I chose to go that route. It has four (4) torx screws holding it down, one shown here in Step 5a and the remaining three in steps 5b through 5d, below. However, before you proceed, you might want to try to make a mental note of the specific location of each of those four screws within the repsective slot for each screw; this is because the placement of this bracket determines the alignment of the body-color top panel once you put it back later. I ended up having to do a little trial and error later to get the alignment back where I liked it.

Step 5b:Torx screw #2.

Step 5c:Torx screw #3.

Step 5d:Torx screw #4. Once screw #4 is out, just lift the bracket off, remembering that later you need to get it right back where it was. If you're lucky, there might be pale circles left by each screw slot from where the washer has been aligned. This will provide somewhat of a guide later, but it won't rule out some trial and error.

Step 6a:Now, assemble the deep socket and universal joint (using the 1/8" to 1/4" converter, if neccesary). Next, raise the headlights again. Now, you'll see that there are three (3) 10mm bolts that pass through brackets behind the light unit with the tip of each bolt pointing toward the front of the car and entering into the back of light unit, thereby holding the light unit in place. Two of these bolts are toward the fender, and in the picture to the right you can see I have the socket in place on one of them. Happily, GM provided a hole in the bracket so the deep socket fits here!!

Step 6b:Here's the 10mm deep socket placed through the bracket to reach the second of the two (2) 10mm bolts that is near the fender.

Step 6c:Here's the third and final bolt that holds the light unit in place. As mentioned above and as shown in this picture, this third bolt is toward the center line of the car. This is fine news because it's also easier to access. The light unit should now pull off freely toward the front of the car, and only the wire harnass will restrict it at all. Unplug both plugs to the light. To do this unplugging, I used a small flat blade screwdriver to lift up on the security tabs. However, if you've got strong enough fingers, you can probably just lift the tabs and pull the plugs apart. Note that the plugs are color coded, 1 gray, 1 black, so you can't get them mixed up later.

Step 7:Here's a comparison of the Euro light unit on the left with the stock unit on the right. Also, if you didn't notice before, I'm using the flat blade screwdriver to point to a "nipple" on the light unit. Both the stock and Euro units have a few of these, and these align with holes in the bracket when you go to re-install them in the car (look at the car bracket right now to see what I'm talking about).

Step 8a:It's time to change the bulb that came with the Euro unit to the higher wattage bulb sold in the kit (actually, you could've done this much earlier). Simply slide your hand under the rubber boot in the center of the unit and gently pull it off the unit.

Step 8b:With the rubber boot removed, you can see a metal clip that holds the bulb in place. The screwdriver is pointing to the tip of the clip. All you need to do is use your thumb to push down on the curved parts of the clip and you'll see how the tip then releases. Unclip both sides of the clip.

Step 8c:I've flipped the clip downward and am ready to take out the stock Euro bulb. It has three flat teeth around its perimeter, one of which I'm indicating with the screwdriver. Due to these teeth, you are forced to put the new bulb in according to the same alignment as the old one. Once the new bulb is in place, flip the clip back upward and clip it down as it was before (sorry, no extra picture of this, but you get the idea).

Step 9:The three 10mm bolts you took out of the stock unit are self-taping, so now is a good time to put them in the Euro unit a first time so as to cut some thread lines into the plastic of the Euro unit. This is what I'm doing in the picture to the right. You can see that you shouldn't tighten them too far because that will crack the housing, in which case you're looking at replacing it. I went in about 90%, and then took the bolts back out.

Step 10a:Here I show the genius of color coding. Note that the female connectors on the LAPD harnass match in color the GM male plugs, that is, one gray, one black. So, plug those babies into their corresponding colors, as shown in Step 10b, below.

Step 10b:The plugs are in; we're getting close to seeing light! It's also time to plug the female end of the harnass on to the bulb in the unit. If you've made it this far, you don't need a picture to figure out how to plug the harnass to the bulb.

Step 11:Here I'm trying to minimze the chance of dropping a 10mm bolt and then having to hunt for it. Before I lift the light assembly up to its bracket, I put the 10mm bolt through the bracket and hold it in place with the 10mm socket. This way, when I lift up the light unit and align the bolt tip with the back of the light unit, I'm ready to start fastening them together without having to fumble with inserting the bolt through the bracket. Also, when tightening the bolts into the back of the Euro unit, be mindful that the nipples on the back of the light unit will need to line up with the holes in the bracket. Tighten the first 10mm bolt about 50% so there is some play in the light unit to be able to get the remaining two 10mm bolts in place. Finish the mounting process of the light unit by threading the other two 10mm bolts through the bracket holes and into the unit, and tighten all three bolts being careful not to tighten too much so you don't break the plastic back of the unit. If you're so inclined, you can now use the 10mm open end wrench to make sure you have the bolts tight enough, but don't go too far.

Step 12:Now is a good time to test these babies and make sure they work. So, turn them on, stand back, and smile. It's almost done!!

Steps 13 through finishing!:Turn the lights fully off so they retract. Then, put the bracket back on top of the unit. Remember, this could end up being the hardest part because next you'll be putting the body-panel cover on top of this bracket, and there might be some misalignment of that cover with the hood and fender. I tightened each of the four torx screws on the bracket to a mild level so it would stay in place, but only enough so I could still move the bracket with some modest force. Then, place the light cover on top and gently shut the hood, being careful that the hood does not hit the body panel that is now lying on top of the light. If the alignment is okay, then take the top cover back off and complete the tightening of the 4 torx screws. If the alignment is unacceptable, then remove the light cover, move the bracket where you think it is better aligned, and repeat until you get it right, making sure that once it's right you remember to take the cover back off and tighten all four torx screws on the bracket that is underneath the cover.
Next, place the top cover back in place.
Next, open the hood, and put in place the two torx screws from Steps 3c and 3d that face the windshield. Next, raise the headlights and put in the the two torx screws from Steps 3a and 3b.
Next, put the black plastic frames back on and fix it in place with the three phillips screws taken out in Steps 1a through 1c.

Step 1a:Raise the headlights. One way of doing this is turning the lights all the way on, then turning the light stalk back one notch and the lights will remain up -- however, your parking lights will stay on. I did this and my battery survived. I think there is also a manual way to raise the lights with a mechanism by each light, but I didn't mess with it. Getting to the removal step, there are three (3) phillips screws that hold a black plastic frame around the headlight. Two of these screws face the center of the car, one shown in the picture to the right and another shown in step 1b immediately below.
Step 1b:The second screw facing the center of the car.
Step 1c:The third phillips screw faces away from the car and is shown in the picture immediately to the right.
Step 2:Remove the black frame. You might need to use the small flat blade screwdriver to very lightly pry downward where you see my finger. The reason why is there is a metal clip just under the body-color panel on top of the light, and the top of the black frame fits in it -- this metal clip is shown immediately below. Also, as indicated by my finger in the picture to the right, the black frame has an upward ridge that must be free of the light to pull the frame out.
Step 2, continued:The screwdriver is just being used here as a pointer to indicate the metal clip into which the black frame from above fits. You don't do anything to the clip; it's just shown so you'll see why the frame takes a little effort to get out.
Step 3a:There are four (4) torx screws that hold the small body-color (e.g., pewter in my case) panel on top of the light. In steps 3a and 3b, you see 2 of these screws, one facing the center line of the car and the other facing away from the car.
Step 3b:The torx screw facing away from the car.
Step 3c:After you remove the screws from steps 3a and 3b, turn the headlights off and raise your hood so you can access the other two torx screws; these other two face the windshield, as shown here in step 3c and in step 3d, below.
Step 3d:The last screw holding the body panel cover on top of the light assembly.
Step 4:Having removed all four (4) torx screws, you are now ready to lift off the top cover panel. It might snag a bit on the side that faces the fender because there is a screw bracket over there (from the black panel you already removed). Be patient and careful not to scratch your paint as you wiggle the cover panel up and away from the car.
Step 5a:Here's a picture once the body-color top panel has been removed. Some folks proceed with un-bolting the light at this point using the end wrench, but I found that to look fairly tedious and I've read some funny recounts of frustration by these people. So, instead, the bracket that you now see on top of the light can be removed and I chose to go that route. It has four (4) torx screws holding it down, one shown here in Step 5a and the remaining three in steps 5b through 5d, below. However, before you proceed, you might want to try to make a mental note of the specific location of each of those four screws within the repsective slot for each screw; this is because the placement of this bracket determines the alignment of the body-color top panel once you put it back later. I ended up having to do a little trial and error later to get the alignment back where I liked it.
Step 5b:Torx screw #2.
Step 5c:Torx screw #3.
Step 5d:Torx screw #4. Once screw #4 is out, just lift the bracket off, remembering that later you need to get it right back where it was. If you're lucky, there might be pale circles left by each screw slot from where the washer has been aligned. This will provide somewhat of a guide later, but it won't rule out some trial and error.
Step 6a:Now, assemble the deep socket and universal joint (using the 1/8" to 1/4" converter, if neccesary). Next, raise the headlights again. Now, you'll see that there are three (3) 10mm bolts that pass through brackets behind the light unit with the tip of each bolt pointing toward the front of the car and entering into the back of light unit, thereby holding the light unit in place. Two of these bolts are toward the fender, and in the picture to the right you can see I have the socket in place on one of them. Happily, GM provided a hole in the bracket so the deep socket fits here!!
Step 6b:Here's the 10mm deep socket placed through the bracket to reach the second of the two (2) 10mm bolts that is near the fender.
Step 6c:Here's the third and final bolt that holds the light unit in place. As mentioned above and as shown in this picture, this third bolt is toward the center line of the car. This is fine news because it's also easier to access. The light unit should now pull off freely toward the front of the car, and only the wire harnass will restrict it at all. Unplug both plugs to the light. To do this unplugging, I used a small flat blade screwdriver to lift up on the security tabs. However, if you've got strong enough fingers, you can probably just lift the tabs and pull the plugs apart. Note that the plugs are color coded, 1 gray, 1 black, so you can't get them mixed up later.
Step 7:Here's a comparison of the Euro light unit on the left with the stock unit on the right. Also, if you didn't notice before, I'm using the flat blade screwdriver to point to a "nipple" on the light unit. Both the stock and Euro units have a few of these, and these align with holes in the bracket when you go to re-install them in the car (look at the car bracket right now to see what I'm talking about).
Step 8a:It's time to change the bulb that came with the Euro unit to the higher wattage bulb sold in the kit (actually, you could've done this much earlier). Simply slide your hand under the rubber boot in the center of the unit and gently pull it off the unit.
Step 8b:With the rubber boot removed, you can see a metal clip that holds the bulb in place. The screwdriver is pointing to the tip of the clip. All you need to do is use your thumb to push down on the curved parts of the clip and you'll see how the tip then releases. Unclip both sides of the clip.
Step 8c:I've flipped the clip downward and am ready to take out the stock Euro bulb. It has three flat teeth around its perimeter, one of which I'm indicating with the screwdriver. Due to these teeth, you are forced to put the new bulb in according to the same alignment as the old one. Once the new bulb is in place, flip the clip back upward and clip it down as it was before (sorry, no extra picture of this, but you get the idea).
Step 9:The three 10mm bolts you took out of the stock unit are self-taping, so now is a good time to put them in the Euro unit a first time so as to cut some thread lines into the plastic of the Euro unit. This is what I'm doing in the picture to the right. You can see that you shouldn't tighten them too far because that will crack the housing, in which case you're looking at replacing it. I went in about 90%, and then took the bolts back out.
Step 10a:Here I show the genius of color coding. Note that the female connectors on the LAPD harnass match in color the GM male plugs, that is, one gray, one black. So, plug those babies into their corresponding colors, as shown in Step 10b, below.
Step 10b:The plugs are in; we're getting close to seeing light! It's also time to plug the female end of the harnass on to the bulb in the unit. If you've made it this far, you don't need a picture to figure out how to plug the harnass to the bulb.
Step 11:Here I'm trying to minimze the chance of dropping a 10mm bolt and then having to hunt for it. Before I lift the light assembly up to its bracket, I put the 10mm bolt through the bracket and hold it in place with the 10mm socket. This way, when I lift up the light unit and align the bolt tip with the back of the light unit, I'm ready to start fastening them together without having to fumble with inserting the bolt through the bracket. Also, when tightening the bolts into the back of the Euro unit, be mindful that the nipples on the back of the light unit will need to line up with the holes in the bracket. Tighten the first 10mm bolt about 50% so there is some play in the light unit to be able to get the remaining two 10mm bolts in place. Finish the mounting process of the light unit by threading the other two 10mm bolts through the bracket holes and into the unit, and tighten all three bolts being careful not to tighten too much so you don't break the plastic back of the unit. If you're so inclined, you can now use the 10mm open end wrench to make sure you have the bolts tight enough, but don't go too far.
Step 12:Now is a good time to test these babies and make sure they work. So, turn them on, stand back, and smile. It's almost done!!
Steps 13 through finishing!:Turn the lights fully off so they retract. Then, put the bracket back on top of the unit. Remember, this could end up being the hardest part because next you'll be putting the body-panel cover on top of this bracket, and there might be some misalignment of that cover with the hood and fender. I tightened each of the four torx screws on the bracket to a mild level so it would stay in place, but only enough so I could still move the bracket with some modest force. Then, place the light cover on top and gently shut the hood, being careful that the hood does not hit the body panel that is now lying on top of the light. If the alignment is okay, then take the top cover back off and complete the tightening of the 4 torx screws. If the alignment is unacceptable, then remove the light cover, move the bracket where you think it is better aligned, and repeat until you get it right, making sure that once it's right you remember to take the cover back off and tighten all four torx screws on the bracket that is underneath the cover. Next, place the top cover back in place. Next, open the hood, and put in place the two torx screws from Steps 3c and 3d that face the windshield. Next, raise the headlights and put in the the two torx screws from Steps 3a and 3b. Next, put the black plastic frames back on and fix it in place with the three phillips screws taken out in Steps 1a through 1c.

Disclaimers, etc.

Let's get started

Congratulations. You're finished, so go do whatever you do to celebrate a job well done.