59 Tack strip Install! Thanks to Joe (Plaidside) for his help directly, and from his own Tack Strip Web Page. Please refer to his site as well as this in order to make the job as easy as possible. Good Luck! Link to Plaidside's Tack strip page!
	Upon dissasembling my old convertible top it was found that the tack strips were in very bad shape thus replacement would be essential if a good convertible top resto was to be ensured.
	Prior to installing the new strips all of the old material must be removed. This pic shows how I "levered" the old material out of the groove but care must be used, especialy on the front header which is alloy and the rear bow which is thin sheet metal, not to damage the bows with the lever(in this case a screwdriver.)
	The Rear bow was the hardest to remove the old tack strip material and the most labour intensive bow to install the new tackstrip as this bow has a "C" channel (as shown in the next pic) that secures the tack strip and it appears that the tack strip was originaly installed and the channel edges were rolled over the edge of the tack strip. It is my recommendation, due to these difficulties, and possible rust damage, that if you have easy access to a vendor, and the available finances, then you should buy a new replacement rear bow with tack strip already installed, but if not, then read on. As I am in Australia, it would have taken another few weeks and another pile of cash for the new bow and freight, I chose to use my old rear bow. Once all of the tack strip material had been removed I used Vice Grips to "open out" one side of the "C" channel as shown in the next couple of pics.
	Where the "T-Nuts" protrude into the channel (for rear latch mounting) I "opened out" both sides of the channel to allow the tack strip to slip over the tubular side of the T-Nuts without obstruction. (as shown in next pic.)
	After ensuring that the tack strip would fit in and was the right length I started glueing (I used liquid nails) from the latch T-Nuts in 6" sections. After I had spread a bead of liquid nails I then pushed one side of the tack strip down and as far into the channel "lip" (the side that I had NOT "opened up" and then used the Bench Vice to "Push" the chanel back over toward the oposite side. Once it was tight against either side of the tack strip I then usesd a piece of scrap timber to "tap" the edge of the tack strip under the "lip" on one side. I then "peened" the side that I had previously "opened up" back over the other edge of the tack strip trying to maintain the original shape and profile of the bow. I then "tapped" the oposite side of the tack strip under the "lip" thus ensuring a tight fit within the channel and a good bond to the glue. I then worked my way in either direction and the finished product is as shown in the next pic. I then cut the bow bolt holes in the tack strip material at the ends of the bow, repainted the bow and chased the threads of the T-Nuts (to remove rust and glue) and it was ready for installation. The next operation was the upper rear bow, that is the one where the convertible top material joins, the one directly above the window. This one was a very straight forward job and I did not trim or chamfer any of the strip. This bow is basicaly a "U" chanel with slight lips on either side of the "U". I placed a 1 foot length of timber in the Bench vice to use as a solid support and placed the bow on top of it, I then applied a bead of liquid nails and then "pressed" the strip as far in with my hands as possible (only 1/8" or so) to get it started and then used the piece of timber (as used on the rear bow) to tap each side of the strip under the metal "edge" or "lip" until tight and square against the bottom of the chanel. Next I moved to the Front Header. First I did the top pad tack strips, the two short ones (one at each end). Here I used the same method as Joe,(Plaidside), I chamfered the edges as shown on his Page, A large edge toward the front upperside and a small one on the back underside. As Joe pointed out, before applying the glue, be sure to put the bolts into the header up to the strip level, where they protrude into the tack strip chanel or glue may be pushed into the bolt holes and then they will have to be thread chased afterwards. Next I applied the bead of liquid nails and pushed the front side down into the header, then using the trusty bit of wood I tapped down on the rear upper edge until it was under the header edge. After working my way along the full length of the strip, I went back over both sides of the tackstrip edges and tapped again ensuring that the strip was square and tight against the bottom of the chanel. Next I attempted the main front header strip and intialy followed Joes recommendations but found that I could not get the strip in more than 6" before it would bind up. I tried it using WD40 as a lubricant but this did help slightly but I could still not get it in further than 6-8". In frustration decided to go for a more agressive aproach and used the same methos as the upper rear bow. I first put all of the T-nuts into the strip fitting the screws into the first couple of threads so as to be able to "locate" the T-nuts during the strip installation. I then pushed one side of the strip in and under the largest side of the chanel and then with the piece of timber "tapped" (with considerable force) the oposite side until it was in and under the other side. Once again, I returned several times to tap some more ensuring a square and tight fit in the chanel. This was the only strip that I did not use any liquid nails as the fit is VERY tight. So a touch of paint and I am ready to re-install the parts onto the frame and continue with the Soft top resto! Any Questions or Problems?? E-mail me @ markma59@hotmail.com